MEDIEVAL USE OF WELD 

Reseda Luteola

• One of the oldest known European dyestuffs – prized by the Romans.
• Known as Dyer’s Rocket or Wild Mignonette
• The best British indigenous plant for fast yellow
• Found wild on Kentish chalk downs since prehistoric times
• C12 Dyeing part of English monastic income
• 1188  mentioned in foundation of Dyer’s Guild in London ,city dyers relied on imported Weld. Importe through Port of London.
• 1197  Parliament under King John regulates dyeing of woolens, Weld mentioned as being copied by inferior dyeplants.
• 1290 Weld dyeing major part of income in parts of Germany. Dyed cloth major export.
• Weld seeds found in ‘Dyer’s Lane’ Beverly and in dyer’s areas from medieval sites in Winchester and Bristol.
•  Jews in C15 Europe had to wear  (weld-dyed)  yellow clothing, modified to just hats in Venice at end of C15.
• 1548  Gianventura Rossetti’s  ‘Plictho’ – recommends 12 recipes for ‘good’ , ‘clear’ and ‘Tawney’  yellows using Weld

METHOD

* Adjective dye – needs a mordant.

• Fast on wool , silk, cotton, viscose -  25% lighter on linen.
• Tartaric acids and Alums give lemon yellows
• Ferrous sulphate saddens and ‘greens’ Weld yellows
• Large copper and pewter dye vessels used in C13 ,remains of foundations and seeds in Winchester. 60 gallon and 30 gallon coppers.
• Medieval recipes recommend mixing Weld with Dogwood/ Old Fustet  cotinus/or camomile Anthemis tinctoria to alter shade

  PLANT DETAILS

• Herbacious plant of the Mignonette family
• Contains luteolin – which crystalises into yellow
• Chalky or clay soil / grows fastest in cool spring. Can be gathered and dryed for winter use.
• Better gathered before it seeds.