Dyework - Natural dyes, historical dye recipes, hand-made yarns

Natural dyes, reviving historical dye recipes, hand-made yarns

Spinning and dyeing courses in London

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Analysis of sources of yellow dyes from plants grown in the dyegarden at Vauxhall City Farm, Central London. All mordants and recipes using chemicals from natural pre-16th Century sources.
Fabric Ref No	Fibre/Fabric	Dye Plant History	Mordant Base ('Magistry')	Additives & Afterbath	Dry Weight of Fabric and Dyestuff + Ratio	Dye Time	Shade/Hue Pantone Textile Colour System (RGB)
MLI-G-01	Medium Linen	Genista Tinctoria	Galling Souring	Slaked Lime Darkened in Common Water	Fabric 120gm Dyestuff 95gm Ratio: 80/100	3 hrs + 24 hr soak	Pantone 393
LS-G-02	Light Silk	Genista Tinctoria	Gall with vitriol	Steep in sodium carbonate	Fabric 50gm Dyestuff 50gm Ratio: 100/100	3 hrs	Pantone 615
LS-G-03	Light Silk	GenistaTinctoria	Alum	Vinegar	Fabric 50gm Dyestuff 50gm Ratio: 100/100	3 hrs	Pantone 110
FLW-G-04	Flannel light wool	Genista Tinctoira	Alum+tartar	Lye-wood ash common water	Fabric 200gm Dyestuff 100gm Ratio: 50/50	3 hrs	Pantone 608
MLI-G-05	Medium Linen	Genista Tinctoria	Galling	Washing soda (sod carb)	Fabric 120gm Dyestuff 100gm Ratio: 90/100	8 hrs (3+soak)	Pantone 122
MLI-G-06	Medium Linen	Genista Tinctoria	Alum+tartar	Bright with ammonia	Fabric 120gm Dyestuff 150gm Ratio: 110/100	3+soak - 8 hrs	Pantone 123
LS-RL-07	Light Silk	Reseda Luteola+Old Fustet 20/80	Water of lime	Ammonia	Fabric 50gm Reseda 30gm + Fustet 20gm Ratio: 100/100	4 hrs	Pantone 1225
LS-RL-08	Light Silk	Reseda Luteola	Water of Lime	Ammonia	Fabric 50gm Dyestuff 50gm Ratio: 100/100	4 hrs	Pantone 115
HS-RL-09	Heavy Silk	Reseda Luteola	Alum Sorrel	Copper Vitriol	Fabric 75gm	4 hrs	Pantone 109
HS-RL-10	Heavy Silk	Reseda Luteola	Copper+Alum	Bran+Alum	Fabric 75gm Dyestuff 100g Ratio: 110/100	4 hrs	Pantone 114
HS-RL-11	Heavy Silk	Reseda Luteola	Copper+Alum soured	Vinegar Sodium Carb	Fabric 75gm Dyestuff 100g Ratio: 110/100	6 hrs	Pantone 124
RW-RL-12	Raised/Fulled Wool	Reseda Luteola	Alum+Tartar	Iron Salts Copper	Fabric 250gm Dyestuff 175gm Ratio: 50/100	2 hrs	Pantone 1245
LS-RL-13	Light Silk	Reseda Luteola	Copper Alum	Iron Copper	Fabric 75gm Dyestuff 75gm Ratio: 100/100	4 hrs	Pantone 129
RW-RL-14	Raised/Fulled Wool	Reseda Luteola	Tannic Acid	Lye Iron Salt	Fabric 250gm Dyestuff 100g Ratio: 40/100	4 hrs	Pantone 131
FLW-SC-15	Flannel Wool	Solidago Canadensis+Reseda	Tannic Acid	Iron Salt	Fabric 150gm Dyestuff 30gm Weld 100gm Ratio: 110/100	2 hrs	Pantone 3975
LS-SC-16	Light Silk	Solidago Canadensis	Lye	Bran Alum	Fabric 75gm Dyestuff 75gm Ratio: 100/100	2 hrs	Pantone 458
MLI-SC-17	Medium Linen	Solidago	Galled	Iron Wood Ash	Fabric 100gm Dyestuff 100g Ratio: 110/100	4 hrs	Pantone 459
LS-SC-18	Light Silk	Solidago	Alum+tartar	Dogwood+Alum	Fabric 75gm Dyestuff 75g Ratio: 100/100	2 hrs	Pantone 602
FLW-SC-19	Flannel Wool	Solidago	Alum Lye	Copper+Salt	Fabric 200gm Dyestuff 100g Ratio: 15/100	4 hrs	Pantone 610
RW-SC-20	Raised/Pulled Wool	Solidago	Alum Vinegar Wood ash	Vinegar	Fabric 250gm Dyestuff 120g Ratio: 50/100	2 hrs	Pantone 113
HS-RL-21	Weft-faced Silk Satin	Reseda Luteola	Alum+Vitriol	Copper salt	Fabric 120gm Dyestuff 120g Ratio: `100/100	2 hrs	Pantone 110
22							Pantone 117
FLW-RL-23	Wool Flannel	Reseda Luteola	Sour water alum	Smokewood Fustet	Fabric 200gm Dyestuff 200gm Ratio: `100/100	2 hrs	Pantone 112

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